Freiburg, Germany – The winds of fate (a nice way of saying, “car trouble”) gave us a few extra days in Freiburg. Lying in the South-West corner of Germany, Freiburg is just a stone’s throw from Alsace and Switzerland. It is a charming little university city, which turns into a tourist destination in the Summer. It boasts the sunniest climate in Germany, as well as the most liberal politics. Happily for us, there is an equally liberal flow of delicious wine and beer.
We explored many of the local establishments. Of all of them we found ourselves returning over and over to Café Légère. With a combination of charming atmosphere and good, inexpensive food and drinks, it was the perfect place for relaxing in the evening. While we stuck mostly to beer, Légère does offer a tantalizing alternative: absinthe. This near-mythical drink made with wormwood, was popular in the late 19th Century. It became illegal due to the reportedly adverse effects of the active compound thujone. For some time now it has been legal here in Europe, and here at Legere there are 18 varieties to choose from.
Absinthe is an aromatic liquor flavored with anis and fennel. It is not drunk straight but rather mixed with water and sometimes sugar. Upon mixing, the clear liquid becomes cloudy. Not being a fan of anise, I won’t become addicted to this green liquid any time soon. Still, there is a bit of a naughty thrill in the ritual of preparing the drink at your table. We did not manage any hallucinations, and happily returned to quaffing beer.
If you stick to beer, as we did for the most part, Légère has three offerings on tap. Fürstenburg Pils and Hefeweizen are both respectable, if commonplace here in Freiburg. There is also Felsen Pils, which we did not enjoy, and only ordered the once.
Prost!
Café Légère
Niemensstr.8
79098 Freiburg
Tel: 0761/32800
Geoffrey hails from the U.S., but has lived in Germany, Sweden, India and China. In his many travels he has sought out the best drinks to be found. He's burned his fingers on cups of Madras filter coffee in India, and discovered the effects of Baijiu on body and soul in China. He has tended bar at both a pub and Biergarten in Germany. He is co-author of a forthcoming publication on Udipi Restaurants.